FONTODI Flaccianello della Pieve Magnum 2017

Fontodi’s 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve is a masterpiece.

This review represents a composite of notes from two separate tasting sessions, one at the winery and a second bottle tasted repeatedly over the course of 24 hours at my own pace. In the case of the second sample, it ended up in a blind flight next to the 2016 Masseto, and as beautiful as that Merlot-based wine is, this wine paints an even more beautiful portrait of a perfect Tuscan landscape, thanks to that tangy Sangiovese typicity. This vintage shows amazing depth and poise, with a sheer sense of elegance that comes from the undisputed quality of fruit achieved in this balanced vintage. The bouquet opens to dark cherry, blue flower and tilled earth. The tannins are taut, almost crunchy, and the wine offers profound pedigree and persistence that is driven by the evident acidity. That depth is what stands out most. Until the 2013 vintage, Flaccianello was aged in barrique for 24 months. After that vintage, six months of the total aging time is spent in botte instead. This 2017 vintage includes a small part from clay amphorae for the first time. This slight change in the relationship of wine to barrel size has resulted in a more elegant and finessed wine. That point is especially underlined in this vintage. Because of cool spring temperatures during the flowering, yields were reduced by 20% in 2017 compared to 2016. Some 65,000 bottles were made.

Monica Larner, July 2019

Wine Advocate 100/100

Ripe, with mulberry, plum, black cherry, mineral and spice flavors, this red is both lush and firmly structured. Complex, well-defined and persistent, courtesy of the racy acidity. Though balanced, this needs a few years to really knit together. Sangiovese. Best from 2021 through 2040.

Bruce Sanderson, October 2019

Wine Spectator 97/100

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